Camping in Japan used to bring on the sort of reaction that could only be said to be justified by the summer mosquitoes. And the summer crowds. But making your plans well in advance for the two hot months of summer holidays can net you some very neat campsites indeed.

Buying camping gear in Japan is still not advisable, especially with the level of the yen to the dollar and the plethora of outdoor equipment mail order catalogues that feature excellent equipment at a fraction of the price. Since most of the hassles of camping, especially with a few young children, can be put down to inadequate facilities or the peg that always bends for the main pole, it's certainly worth investing in a decent tent and equipment. And remember, if you're taking the train and staying at one camp site for a length of time, you can always send the equipment on ahead by takkyubin if you don't want to rent the facilities there or carry it yourself. For very young children, always take some mosquito netting and a backpack to sling them into when the hiking loses its charm for small legs.

If you'd like local support, then most of the Kuyakusho and Shiyakusho offices offer camping facilities in the summer to residents, and people who work and go to school in those districts. You will need to apply usually by May to qualify for the lottery which decides which candidates get to go. Shinagawa-ku has a particularly fine campgrounds in Karuizawa which is usually available July 18-Aug. 23. The fees of 1,000 yen-2,000 yen get you a decent-sized family tent, and the admission of a few hundred yen also covers insurance. Rental of sleeping bags and cooking equipment is usually free. Camping is often under the jurisdiction of the sports associations at the local offices, so be aware that your bucolic fields might see energetic young footballers early on a Sunday morning -- and early in summer here can mean well before 7am.

OKUTAMA offers easy access by train from Tokyo and is a wonderful area of natural features. Exit the station, go south across the bridge, and you will see the camp grounds on the right side under the bridge, lying just beside the Tamagawa River. Camping is on the rocks, but very convenient for a river bank. They sell wood there so you can make a camp fire if so desired, and grill your catch of the day. Okutama Choei Kawai Camp-jo (0428) 85-2206. Nishi-Tama-gun, Okutama-machi, Omezawa. Eight minutes from Kawai Sta. (Ome Line going towards Okutama). 150 campsites at 700 yen per person, bungalows 6,000 yen, cute but expensive, and 2,000 yen for parking. You have to be in between 8:30 and 11pm, and out by 10am. Open March 1-Nov. 30. AKIYAMA offers camping on the river above Sagamiko Lake on grounds situated in a beautiful spot and you can rent canoes, boats, and fishing equipment, and the lake waters make for excellent swimming in the hot months. If the rugged life starts to pale, the area offers amusement and leisure centers, and boats on the lake in the shape of ducks and airplanes. Akiyamagawa Camp-jo (0426) 87-2030. Kanagawa-ken, Tsukui-gun, Fujino-machi, Yukura. Fujino Sta. (JR Chuo Line), by bus. Campsite 1,000 yen per person, 800 yen for children, bungalows a pricey 13,600 yen (for 6 or more people), or 9,200 yen (for 3 to 5 people). You must be in by 1am, and out by noon.

NAGATORO is a great semi-wilderness destination quite close to Tokyo. Join the trips in traditional Japanese longboats (known as Ra-In Kudari, or "descending from the Rhine") down the Arakawa River at the rocky Nagatoro Gorge. The vertical greenish stones in the waters are called iwadatami, or "rock tatami mats." The hikes in the area are good, with some stiff ones for the adventurous camper. While in the vicinity, visit Hodosan Jinja, or take the cable car five minutes up the mountain to the shrine's sanctuary at the top. There are also makers of Chichibu nuri, or fine lacquer ware, traditional toy crafts, and you can fathom the intricacies of puzzles at the Nazo Nazo Kobo puzzle workshop. Grape-picking is on offer in season, and the camp grounds are one of the few to provide camping on earth, not a concrete travesty, in fields with trees. Equipment for tennis, canoeing, sleeping, etc. can be rented. Nagatoro Camp-jo (0494) 66-0640. Chichibu-gun, Nagatoro-machi, Oaza Ido 559-1. Bus it from Yorii Sta. (JR Hachiko/Tobu-Tojo Line) or take the Chichibu Line to Nagatoro Sta. 3,000 yen per car, bungalows up to 9,000 yen (for 3 to 5 people). Curfew is early at 10pm, and you must check out by 11am. Open March 10-Dec. 10.

THE JAPAN CAMP ASSOCIATION Tel: (03) 3469-0217 can advise on the best camping grounds for your family. Nihon Auto Camp Kyokai (Japan Auto Camping Federation, JAC), tel: (03) 3357-2851/fax: (03) 3357-2850. (URL: http://www.autocamp.or.jp/autocamp) in Japanese only but worth a look.

Sado Island (Sadogashima)

The next annual Earth Celebration International Arts and Music Festival (EC) will be held August 22-24, 2003. It features concerts, performance and workshops by the drum troupe Kodo (Kodou) which debuted in 1981 in Berlin and in 1988 established Kodomura in Ogi, Sado Island where they held the EC. Tickets are usually sold at JR Midori no Madoguchi and View Plaza. Kodo (0259) 86-3630/Fax: (0259) 86-3631. There are overnight buses available from in front of the Ueno Matsuzakaya Dept. Store at 11pm and from JR Osaka Sta. at 10pm. Early reservations are recommended. You have to find your way back so, maybe, you should discuss it with the JR people at the large stations because there could be some "special deals" return tickets to Niigata. (URL: http://www.kodo.or.jp/ec)

Nagano Prefecture (Nagano-ken)